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Old 08-21-2011, 08:55 AM
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milomilo milomilo is offline
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Yesterday at the auction I picked up this gas forge. Been considering making my own with no idea how to do it. It has Johnson Iron Works cast into the blower assy. Net says they are still in business, so I will be contacting them to see if I can get a manual for it. Looks to be in real good condition. Blower motor spins freely. Wiring for the blower switch is on top of the forge.

It has a height adjustable swing over cover filled with refractory and 4 burner outlets. Unloading today and checking out the electrical on the blower. It has a electrical magnetic switch inline on the gas. Not sure how that works yet.

Nice part is I got it for $15. Can't even think about making my own designed crappy one for that price. It has 2 knobs that adjust the gas flow into the burner area. Not sure how to set/adjust them yet either. Anyone seen this type of forge before and can help me with the magnetic switch thing or operating/lighting instructions?
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Old 08-21-2011, 08:58 AM
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Old 08-21-2011, 08:59 AM
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Yes I have seen them similar to this before. They use a LOT of gas. The open design allows a lot of heat to escape and kills the efficiency. For fifteen dollars you did really well. The new ones like this cost about 4 grand.

I can get you some details wednesday. I will have eyes on a new one. This will get you to a website and instructions. Lighting them is a matter of turning on the gas and taking a long piece of burning paper to the interior of the forge body. The magnetic switch is a safety feature. It cuts the gas off in case of a power failure. You have to hold a button down while you light it.

The ones I am familiar with are natural gas. Im not sure what you need to do to convert them. Im thinking they might be Johnson but I really cannot remember.
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Last edited by tnmike; 08-21-2011 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:05 AM
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Chris,

The magnetic switch is a solenoid valve. Look on the small plate under the nut that holds it together. The name and number should be on that plate. You can google it from there. It is probably a normally closed valve. apply power to open and turn off power to close. This forge was probably used in a building with the fuel piped directly to it and used this valve to turn off and on the gas. If it is newer it may have been some sort of safety devise. Looks like it has some sensors in the lid as well?

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Old 08-21-2011, 09:13 AM
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Here you go..i was right on my memory. The two burner is 200,000 btu/hr per hour gas usage. I would crank the lid up and block the sides and back up with firebrick/ It would save fuel and cut down on the heat. You can also cut the propane pressure down . The ones I have used on natural gas put a LOT of heat out into the room they are in. They are industrial use forges where the spaces are big and costs dont matter.

http://www.johnsongas.com/industrial/frn-forge.asp
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Last edited by tnmike; 08-21-2011 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnmike View Post
Here you go..i was right on my memory. The two burner is 200,000 btu/hr per hour gas usage. I would crank the lid up and block the sides and back up with firebrick/ It would save fuel and cut down on the heat. You can also cut the propane pressure down . The ones I have used on natural gas put a LOT of heat out into the room they are in. They are industrial use forges where the spaces are big and costs dont matter.

http://www.johnsongas.com/industrial/frn-forge.asp
Thanks much. I think with the swing over cover it should hold in the heat better than a wide open forge.
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:54 AM
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I think with the swing over cover it should hold in the heat better than a wide open forge.

The swing over cover allows a LOT of heat the escape. I have used about every kind of forge there is and this one puts more heat into the room than any other I have used. There is no flue taking heat away like an open forge. You could build a hood over it with a forced fan draft that would make a lot of difference.

Try it as is and try it with firebrick blocking off the sides and back and the flame cut way back. You got a killer buy either way.

I think this is the manual for one you have..Yours is an older model but its basically the same.

http://www.johnsongas.com/industrial...rkNoSafety.pdf

You can light this type forge with the blower running and the gas on without an electric starter with lit newspaper. Just done have your face over it when you do.
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Last edited by tnmike; 08-21-2011 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 08-21-2011, 10:35 AM
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Here is a little forge I use about all the time. Its naturally aspirated(no blower) and will run on one pound of propane. It will forge weld on fifteen pounds of propane. Ive probably got six or eight forges I have made over the years ranging from coal to gas , forced air and natural air. This one was made by a friend of mine in Cosby, TN and sits on a take down square tube stand. Its has a castable refractory lining.

I thought you might be interested.
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Old 08-21-2011, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnmike View Post
I think with the swing over cover it should hold in the heat better than a wide open forge.

The swing over cover allows a LOT of heat the escape. I have used about every kind of forge there is and this one puts more heat into the room than any other I have used. There is no flue taking heat away like an open forge. You could build a hood over it with a forced fan draft that would make a lot of difference.

Try it as is and try it with firebrick blocking off the sides and back and the flame cut way back. You got a killer buy either way.

I think this is the manual for one you have..Yours is an older model but its basically the same.

http://www.johnsongas.com/industrial...rkNoSafety.pdf

You can light this type forge with the blower running and the gas on without an electric starter with lit newspaper. Just done have your face over it when you do.
Thanks for the manual, but I'm not sure it is the right one. My forge has Johnson Iron Works from NE on it and this manual says Johnson Gas Works. Different companies???
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Old 08-21-2011, 03:06 PM
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Its pretty much the same design as the new Johnson gas forges so I would say they are closely related if not the same company. Youve got enough info on the Johnson website to get yours going. There are about five different manuals for the two burner forges depending on what safety equipment is installed on them. This is the only UL approved gas forge. The local community college got into it with the local fire marshall and had to buy five of them at a cost of 20 grand. The drawback as I see it is the amount of fuel they use, the up front cost and the amount of heat they put into the room and on the operator. You can literally watch the gas meter whirl around like a clock when one is running.

I would take it outside, hook a gas bottle to it and light it. Ive seen forced air forges where the gas was run into an elbow with a copper tube and lit after the fan was turned on. Crude but it worked.
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