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  #431  
Old 01-29-2024, 08:12 PM
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allessence allessence is offline
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Originally Posted by Scotts View Post
I had a terrible time with where to put a 90 and make the thing come out correctly. Some how or another I figured out the measurement called out on the bender. 5 inches stub on 1/2 inch and 6 inch stub on 3/4. I can do the 90s and have them come out correctly. The others. well.........

How to ID wires after a few sleep cycles in the panels and conduits. Or my redneck way, POWER OFF!!! use your Ohm meter and a pair of vise grips. pick your target conduit, strip a wire at the panel and vise grip it to the conduit or the panel the conduit is connected to, one lead of meter on a wire and one on the conduit set to ohms, leave the one on the conduit and touch the ends of the wires one by one. When you have continuity you know where each end of the wires are. Now do that 500 times and you will be done. Hmmmm wonder why I only picked 500 times?

Scott
Scott, worked a charm.. The conduit was a great path, so I guess the grounding aspect if installed correctly played in.

2 days ago I was able to get all the lights connected and working the way they should.

Running those extra 2 wires was moot. I won't be doing that again.

Seems so weird coming in and hitting a switch and the lights come on..

The dimming function works as it should too.

Have just a few more circuits to wire on this end..

Then can move onto the siding and installation of the sub panel for 1ph 120/240V.
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  #432  
Old 05-26-2024, 06:19 PM
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allessence allessence is offline
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It's been some time..

I've been busy with horses and construction and adding new machines..

Of which I added a Cincinnati Monoset tool grinder.

More on that later.

I am getting ready to pour the front pad.. My question is do I tie the existing building with epoxied rebar or skip the tie in.

I would not be concerned if I was heating the space, but it won't be heated for a few years. So I'm sure will get some freezing going on.
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Jennifer

If I defend myself I am attacked.

My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world.

My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

My google+ page

DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.

https://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums...860#post766860
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  #433  
Old 05-26-2024, 08:27 PM
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mccutter mccutter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allessence View Post
My question is do I tie the existing building with epoxied rebar or skip the tie in.
My guess is that you would isolate the new pad with expansion joints due to differing expansion/contraction of the heated/unheated pads. I would talk to a local contractor who is familiar with your climate and how it affects slabs and pours.

PS: always good to hear from you and your progress with the school.

So do you and ORF have an agreement over the old iron on the East Coast? You get the northern pickings and he gets the southern pickings?
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  #434  
Old 05-26-2024, 09:26 PM
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Whitetrash Whitetrash is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccutter View Post
My guess is that you would isolate the new pad with expansion joints due to differing expansion/contraction of the heated/unheated pads. I would talk to a local contractor who is familiar with your climate and how it affects slabs and pours.

PS: always good to hear from you and your progress with the school.

So do you and ORF have an agreement over the old iron on the East Coast? You get the northern pickings and he gets the southern pickings?
Interesting concept I do know Jenn has way better taste she buys equipment that's useful out of the hole,
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  #435  
Old 05-27-2024, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Whitetrash View Post
Interesting concept I do know Jenn has way better taste she buys equipment that's useful out of the hole,
Yup, and the equipment she buys appears to have been stored INSIDE...
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  #436  
Old 05-27-2024, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allessence View Post
I

I am getting ready to pour the front pad.. My question is do I tie the existing building with epoxied rebar or skip the tie in.

I would not be concerned if I was heating the space, but it won't be heated for a few years. So I'm sure will get some freezing going on.
My shop has a 10x 50 apron without any roof along the front of the building. I left the rebar stick out about 18" tied with the apron rebar. The slab was poured a couple months later. So the apron is not bonded to the floor slab but tied to it by the rebar. I have measured 3/8" lift during winter on the apron, but the floor slab and the apron both are fine.

It does freeze here, and this has been in service since 2009.
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  #437  
Old 05-28-2024, 07:14 PM
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allessence allessence is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccutter View Post
My guess is that you would isolate the new pad with expansion joints due to differing expansion/contraction of the heated/unheated pads. I would talk to a local contractor who is familiar with your climate and how it affects slabs and pours.

PS: always good to hear from you and your progress with the school.

So do you and ORF have an agreement over the old iron on the East Coast? You get the northern pickings and he gets the southern pickings?
Thanks.. I've ended up reading so much stuff about tie or not to with little results..

Seems it's about 50/50 over varied terrain. in Freeze climates most say not to tie in.


LOL with ORF on old iron.. It might just be so..

I might have gotten lucky with the Monoset.. It was in a CNC shop that was ran by 1 guy.. The guy bought it from an automobile parts plant about 5 years ago.. The guy used it for a few years but was so busy it became easier to buy new then to resharpen used.

for the 1750 delivered it was a good deal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitetrash View Post
Interesting concept I do know Jenn has way better taste she buys equipment that's useful out of the hole,
Every once in awhile every dog gets thrown a bone.. lol.. It's not often.. I have spent so much time working on old iron, and while I enjoy chasing after something to get it running.. It's nice when something runs when paid for..

Quote:
Originally Posted by mccutter View Post
Yup, and the equipment she buys appears to have been stored INSIDE...
LOL.. I just paint it before i post photos.. Just kidding..

This machine was stored inside at the guys Milling farm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
My shop has a 10x 50 apron without any roof along the front of the building. I left the rebar stick out about 18" tied with the apron rebar. The slab was poured a couple months later. So the apron is not bonded to the floor slab but tied to it by the rebar. I have measured 3/8" lift during winter on the apron, but the floor slab and the apron both are fine.

It does freeze here, and this has been in service since 2009.
Gerry, I'd love to see some photos of what is there..

My concrete guy said with how tight the space is and on the cold side of the building it might freeze/lift as much as 3" ..

I've seen the dirt there even with the top of the slab in winter which is about 2.5" rise in dirt.

I think I'll let it float.. It will be retained by all the front shed dormer footings and the wall in the back..

Id really like to heat it, but not in the cards currently.. LIke all this building stuff I won't really be happy, but good enough, is good enough.
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Jennifer

If I defend myself I am attacked.

My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world.

My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

My google+ page

DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.

https://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums...860#post766860
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  #438  
Old 05-28-2024, 07:46 PM
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toprecycler toprecycler is offline
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So, thoughts on the freezing/ lifting.

Why will the ground lift and pull/ push things when frozen. Isn’t it the water/ moisture that will expand when frozen in the dirt? So if the Ground under the pad is dry, it should not
rise when frozen?

So what would happen if you excavated the dirt and put in 12” of pea stone/ drain stone before pouring the floor. Water should drain right thru this layer, and even if it got down into the dirt under and froze, there might be enough movement in the stone to keep the pad from lifting.

How does this theory sound.

But it looks like you are ready to pour the approach, so probably a bit late.


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  #439  
Old 05-29-2024, 12:28 AM
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arizonian arizonian is offline
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First things first, I am not qualified. After all, what freezes in AZ?

It doesn't look lite the pad is going any where with the piers already in place. Some expansion joints, everywhere there might be an issue...

I can see the logic of stone under the pad to provide drainage. How deep should the stone be? Six (6) feet to frost line?

Brings up another thought. In AZ, we use a tool, a tamper, to bring up the cream and push down the gravel after screeding the wet concrete. From what I've read, this will cause the surface to spall in a cold climate and is only used in warmer climates.

Greywind needs to chime in, IIRC he has extensive knowledge of concrete in cold climates. Haven't heard from DDA52 for awhile now.
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  #440  
Old 05-29-2024, 06:11 AM
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I’d put expansion joint material around the piers, and at the existing slab and let it float. Chances are it will lift in winter, but will drop down again in spring.

Putting any clear material under a pad like this may or may not work. It may allow water to drain through, however if the surrounding material is heavy clay, it may act as an area for the water to pool and then freeze. It all depends what the ‘native’ material is.


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