Miller syncrowave 250

[gimpyrobb]

Found a 250 with cooler, pedal, 300 pulser, and new torch(ck20) for $1200. Going to try it out tomorrow. What do I need to watch out for?

[GWIZ]

Make sure it is "not" a three phase only machine.
and check voltage requirements.

[gimpyrobb]

Would the serial number tell me that? I know you can look them up on-line.

[toprecycler]

The serial number should. But if you can read the serial, you should be able to read the rest of the info tag.

Make sure the high frequency start works.

Check the foot pedal for smooth amperage control. Replacements for Miller/ Lincoln are pricey.

If it does not, the electrodes might need adjustment.

Side story, I have a Lincoln precision tig 275. I just added a cooler to it last year. On initial test welds, it was working fine. Then the high frequency start stopped working.

I had forgotten to tighten the new lead in properly, and coolant was leaking down the welder, into the opening for the electrode adjustment. The coolant shorted out the high frequency. I blew it out with air, tightened the connection, and it worked again.


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[mccutter]

Originally Posted by gimpyrobb

Would the serial number tell me that? I know you can look them up on-line.

Yup, ser # will lead you to a manual and also you can find out the year of mfg. Price depends on if it is an earlier model or later. Good price for later model and it sounds like it has a cooler (20-series is wc 250A torch). The pulser is a bonus, I think to add it was $300 or so. If it is in rough shape and has been out in the weather I'd be prepared to pull the cover(s) off and take a look. Ideally you'd bring a bottle of Ar, gloves, hood, scraps, filler, Ws, etc. so you can lay down some beads. If you can get a continuous foot of weld I'd say it's a keeper.

PS: last one I had was about 5 years old and I got it for $2000. Sold a few months later for $2500. They DO take up a lot of space and are in the 500lb range...

[gimpyrobb]

Serial KA911690

[gimpyrobb]

Manual
https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow.../O353D_MIL.pdf

Looks like a 1990 single phase compatible.

[mccutter]

Not that I use debay for pricing but they are getting ALL the money for them . The one I used to have they are asking double for in one of the listings--it would appear they are capable of holding their value. Last one I saw at auction was in good condition and went for about $2000 (newer style with cooler underneath).

I think for $1200 (or less) you could do good on it. I would definitely pull the covers on a 30yo machine unless it looks like its been cared for.

Around here, a lot of times the "surplus" machines end up outside in the sun/rain/sun/rain (repeat 10,000 times) and look like the pictures shown. That is if it is on concrete. They'll also put them out in a field and the ants and other pests will move in. That is the pic of the Lincoln which is FREE BTW but over an hour away so not something I'm remotely interested in. The other pic is to show you the sun/rain effect on paint and knobs and inside lugs can also corrode but can be taken apart and dressed with a file.

You also have to watch out for scammers--last pic is an example. All they are doing is harvesting emails.

[gimpyrobb]

It is legit, I'm going to pick it up tomorrow. It was bought in a lot of welders, the guy wanted the wire feed 200. We opened it up to change to 230v. It was dirty inside, but not horrible. Everything worked except the cooler(didn't try it - ran out of time). It was weird playing with the pulse, I haven't used one before.

Most syncrowave 250s around here go for about 1500 for just the power supply so I'm happy. I know my 30a spoolgun will work with it, I hope my push/pull boxes do too.

[mccutter]

Originally Posted by gimpyrobb

Most syncrowave 250s around here go for about 1500 for just the power supply so I'm happy. I know my 30a spoolgun will work with it, I hope my push/pull boxes do too.

Don't confuse the 14-pin connector for the remote (pedal) with the 10-pin connector that powers/controls the 30A or other Miller wire feeds. They are not the same. The Sync is a CC power source, while ideally the 30A will connect to a CV power source. You could rig it to power the 30A with the Sync but I don't think the Sync 24v circuit is robust enough to power the 30A drive motor for any extended period of time. You might get the 30A to work with a controller like the WC-115 but you will have to fine-tune the amps to find the "sweet spot" to get the best output.