Oh God no - Part II

[Shade Tree Welder]

Originally Posted by toprecycler

It’s probably not just steel. It probably has a bit of bronze on it, or hardened steel . Steel on steel would not be good. It would eat itself in use. One metal will be dissimilar to decrease wear, and the bushing should be the softer one, to be the sacrificial one designed to be replaced.


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Grease it. maybe even add a zirk.

[digr]

Spacer for pulley

[moe1942]

Hint: do prelim tracking adjustment with power unplugged..Don't need ablade necktie. Rotate big wheel by hand..

[staybusy]

I got the top wheel back on, here are some images of the bushing. Looks like just steel with some surface rust on the inside (cleaned that off).

[staybusy]

I realized the bottom wheel needed to come off too (of course), it was also squeaking. It has a keyway and hex screw. I use a puller, take it off.

The problem is putting it back on. It's such a tight fit this damn thing won't go back. Once it gets 1CM from flush I'll be hammering it and it pushes back the entire shaft (which is connected to the brass gear).. shifting it back into misalignment in the gear box. Pretty sure this wheel was pressed on or clamped then the shaft hammered from the other end.

I had to pull the wheel back off again to realign the keyway and it snapped in multiple places. So pissed. Now I have to cut into it with a dremel and JB weld it --- and it will probably snap again when I'm trying to fit it on the overly tight shaft.

What a disaster.

[LKeithR]

Don't waste your time with f**n JB Weld. That stuff is a complete joke! Either tig weld or braze the wheel back together--nothing else is going to hold.

You pulled on the rim of the wheel right? Can't do that. When you use a puller on something like that you have to pull from the hub in the centre...

[digr]

Oh boy ya really fucked up now! When ever putting a keyed pulley on a shaft you have to do whatever you have to to get it to slide on by hand without the key then do it all over again to get it to slide on with the key. Jb weld ain't gonna do it on that pulley, try to find another one or braze or weld it. Why did you remove it in the first place?

[Lew Hartswick]

:-) some people just aren't cut out to me machinists. :-)
...lew...

[staybusy]

Originally Posted by LKeithR

Don't waste your time with f**n JB Weld. That stuff is a complete joke! Either tig weld or braze the wheel back together--nothing else is going to hold.

You pulled on the rim of the wheel right? Can't do that. When you use a puller on something like that you have to pull from the hub in the centre...

I only have stick and mig. I do have some brazing rods but I've never used them and they probably aren't the right type. I pulled from the outer rim. Painful lesson. I think I felt physical pain when I saw it crack.

Originally Posted by digr

Oh boy ya really fucked up now! When ever putting a keyed pulley on a shaft you have to do whatever you have to to get it to slide on by hand without the key then do it all over again to get it to slide on with the key. Jb weld ain't gonna do it on that pulley, try to find another one or braze or weld it. Why did you remove it in the first place?

Damn I even sanded the shaft for a few minutes then greased it I should have sanded it until it slid on properly.

Even with ear protection there was a really annoying and loud squeaking from behind the wheels. I have to make hands on cuts for 6-7 hours straight so it needs to be fixed.

I JB welded it. Will it hold? What will break next? Will I ever get to work on my project? Find out next time, in the next post of OH GOD NO.

[Ironman]

Originally Posted by Lew Hartswick

:-) some people just aren't cut out to me machinists. :-)
...lew...

Groan!

You need help (and so does that bandsaw).
Take this wheel to someone who can weld or braze the busted wheel together. If you are worried about run out, don't be. 30-60 thou, not going to affect it. If you take it to someone who tells you it can't be welded, drive on to the next one. Cast can be welded after you clean off the fucking JB. A couple of sticks of 1/8" NiRod at 90 amps should do fine.
Clean up and measure your shaft, and have some one with an expanding reamer clean up the bore to a tight sliding fit.
If you had die grinder with a small flap wheel you could have polished up the inside of the bore. IIRC, that bore is about 20mm, you can grind a 1" flap wheel down to size against a grindstone with the die grinder running.

Do you have a scrap metal bin? gather up all your hammers and throw them in to the bin, this will save you money and time.