![]() |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]() When the blade makes connection it jams up, I traced the issue back to the worm gear, the gear itself and the shaft aren't remaining attached to the pulley once load is applied and are locking up or have broken free or something. Any ideas on the best way to fix it? Video showing the problem https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bzsJniblUVQ |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
You have probably lost the key in the pulley shaft or the key has sheared off. Pull off the worm gear pulley to inspect it.
__________________
Gerry You got freedom of speech, if you don't say too much. Aaron Neville. When a liberal screams racism, you can bet they were also born with white skin. One of the things my dad taught me is that the world is your bathroom -- Quick Dick McDick |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
sheared or if set screws are used they have sheared or backed out, disassemble, evaluate and fix it. Use Blue Loctite on set screws. 242 or 243.
__________________
Shade "Prepare to defend yourselves." -- Sergeant Major Basil L. Plumley, Ia Drang Valley |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Yep, was quite an easy fix after all. The screw in the pulley wasn't tight anymore.
Huge relief for me to not have to start extracting and replacing gears or shafts. I noticed the lower worm gear tooth was kind of busted up but nothing too crazy. I didn't have any 140 gear oil so I put in some transmission oil in the gearbox. What do you guys think..? can I just leave it or should I blow $40 ordering the exact oil they recommend? |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
regular gear oil will eat the bronze worm gear. Get the right shit, cheaper than replace the gear.
__________________
Shade "Prepare to defend yourselves." -- Sergeant Major Basil L. Plumley, Ia Drang Valley |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
Last edited by staybusy; 07-05-2022 at 08:48 PM. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
sulfur and sulfur eats copper alloys. Bye bye worm gear. https://www.mcmaster.com/2158K66/ I am sure you can find that in Canada some where. Mobil SHC 634 or 636 both fall into the SAE 140 gear oil specification, they are ISO 460 and ISO 680 respectively. Either will work.
__________________
Shade "Prepare to defend yourselves." -- Sergeant Major Basil L. Plumley, Ia Drang Valley |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
Price in CAD: $77-150 depending on the source What is going on with my toilet paper of a currency lol Gonna call the local bearing / motor shop tomorrow and see if they can hook me up with something at a reasonable price. EDIT: https://royalpurpledirect.com/max-ge...etic-gear-oil/ "Max Gear 75W-140 is recommended for use in truck and automotive front or rear differentials, manual transmissions and lower gear units of marine engines that specify the use of an API GL-5 or GL-4 fluid. It is non-corrosive to soft yellow metals (brass, bronze, copper, etc.) and synchronizer safe." ^They claim yellow metal safe. Last edited by staybusy; 07-05-2022 at 11:37 PM. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
It isn't, GL-5 gear oils contain sulfur, and for steel hypoid gears, that is great!
But not for bronze. What they do is add a yellow metal corrosion inhibitor, that gives an initial 1A/B result on ASTM D130 test. So they claim it is safe. However, if you test the same oil after a few hundred or a few thousand hours of use it would not pass. The inhibitor gets consumed in the system and then the SIB (sulfurized isobutylene) eats copper and it alloys. BTW, this is what I do for a living. https://lubeperformanceadditives.com/files/Elco-391.pdf One of my companies products, we claim it but we know better. It is marketing.
__________________
Shade "Prepare to defend yourselves." -- Sergeant Major Basil L. Plumley, Ia Drang Valley |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
had nothing to do with that, and I am sorry... I am going to see if Petro Canada has anything.
__________________
Shade "Prepare to defend yourselves." -- Sergeant Major Basil L. Plumley, Ia Drang Valley |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|