Oh God no - Part II

[staybusy]

This one I was sure would be a disaster..

I'm trying to do some work on my bandsaw and this god awful squeaking starts blasting my ears. I trace it to the top wheel, notice there's a bolt (part of it was stripped), 2 nuts (spinning freely) and 2 washers.. last owners modification I think

I take everything off, get a nice fresh chinesium bolt, cut it to the right length so I don't need the extra nuts anymore, put washers, lightly tighten it, job done. Flip the switch. The thing breaks instantly..

I was sure I was gonna have a hell of a time extracting it.. but thankfully I backed it out with a center punch and hammer. I got real lucky.

Any tips to stop that squeaking? I assume pull the wheel off and clean it or grease it or something?

Do I need a bolt with specific hardness? Can't risk that shit breaking again.

[Shade Tree Welder]

You might need new bearings, generally they used sealed or shielded bearings.

[staybusy]

Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder

You might need new bearings, generally they used sealed or shielded bearings.

I might have some new ones on hand in the right size but they're the plastic shielded type, is that alright?

Edit: reading comprehension = 0. Just noticed you mentioned sealed is ok.

[staybusy]

There's no bearing (cleaned grease and dirt to make sure), there's a washer and steel sleeve then a shaft and steel block which seems loose and tilted off the the side.

I can align the block and tighten the bolt on the back end. There's also a hex screw, what does that do?

Should I put a light coat of grease when I put things back together?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hYMRqvOrYY

[digr]

You need a bolt with a spacer between the shaft and the washer so the pulley could spin with the bolt tight.

[Shade Tree Welder]

Pull the band wheel off there has to be a bearing inside there, even the cheap
china saws have bearings. But yeah if there is no ball bearing just a journal
bearing, definitely grease a good #2 wheel bearing grease (GC-LB).

[GWIZ]

Originally Posted by staybusy

I can align the block and tighten the bolt on the back end. There's also a hex screw, what does that do?

Should I put a light coat of grease when I put things back together?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hYMRqvOrYY

youtube does not work on my slow PC. ... I would like to see a side picture of how the tracking hinge works.
I would guess the setscrew is for tracking adjustment.

Likely a cast-iron wheel and a steel shaft no bearing... at least grease or better, way oil.

for my saw I was going to ream the wheel out for needle bearings and try a shoulder bolt for a replacement shaft but ran into a problem my saw does not have a tracking adjustment something I would have to add.

As stated above by digr.
the wheel must free-wheel (blade removed) when tightened with that screw you broke.... adjust the gap with spacers so you do not lock the wheel from free-wheeling..

[mccutter]

I'll take a look at mine the next time I'm at the shop. I couldn't imagine there not being some kind of bearing/bushing to allow the pulley to spin freely. I don't think that bolt and washer are made to "spin".

[toprecycler]

If you break the JB weld and redo it,you will have to come up with a way to fixture it to hold it straight. This will be even more important if you try to weld it with nickel rod. Best way would be to leave it attached to the saw, and be able to rotate the pulley to see if it is straight.

Chances are even if you get it to align the cracks up perfectly, some of the parts are actually bent, so you will need to actually grind a bit of metal away to actually get the outer rim straight to the inner bore again.

Other option ( although it probably is a bit too far out to do now) is to set up on a lathe to remachine it true. But if you could figure out a way to attach a grinder to the saw as it is turning, and slowly grind the pulley high spots, you might be able to grind a little bit of the wobble out.


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