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Old 06-13-2012, 09:28 PM
RandomDave RandomDave is offline
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Default Electrical bypass for welder.

Ive taken on the challenge of rebuilding an old acklands "tigercat" welder generator with a blown engine. After some research I discovered it is basically a re-badged miller bobcat 225. And after even more research I discovered that finding and buying parts for the poor onan engine would be astronomical.

So I went ahead and did an engine swap with a different engine and now I have a wiring harness that I need to decipher and wire up to the new engine to get it working properly. As of right now, I have no welding output or auxiliary power.

Are there any electrical gurus in the house who can help me wire it up while keeping the smoke from getting out?

The area in red in the second picture is all stuff that was all on the old engine and is now disconnected. I do have a starter, alternator, and 12V battery on the new engine but it is all wired independently from the welder.
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:05 PM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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post a link to the miller bobcat 225 manual that you are using.

I see an Oil kill switch on the old wiring.

Do you have a diagram for the new engine?

Need to decipher S2. it had/feeds power to the engine.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:35 PM
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ooofff.

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Is S2 the ignition/master switch?
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:49 PM
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After a quick glance it looks like you need your 12 volts to excite your field through the switch.

Wish I was familiar with the unit.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:57 PM
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The biggest Issue I have is we do not know how much power the welder needs, we can check that with a DC amp clamp
BUT we also need to know how much reserve power the New engines alternator can supply ?

If the alternator is not large enough you may fry it and or its regulator.

===

Then there is the one or two Solenoids on the old motor, what did they do?
I assume one is fast idle maybe for 120 volt power, and maybe one for fast run for welding.

Is this an issue ?
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:22 AM
David R David R is offline
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Terminal #1 on the left of the revolving field is negative or ground common with the hour (12 volt) meter.

The other terminal is the hot wire that exccites the field. I do not know what R1 and R2 values are. You need + DC voltage there for the welder to put out AC or DC welding power or your 120 v AC.

Can you check for + and - volts at the slip ring?

Starter and alternator are no big deal. Perhaps to get it welding first would be easiest.

R1 may be the knob for adjusting output. Is F1 OK?

David
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:29 AM
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Don't forget that in picture 2 wire #33 is a ground that needs to be completed through the plug. If you have that plug disconnected from the new motor your not grounded either.
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:51 AM
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I threw the onan on my bob cat in the trash. Replaced it with a 23HP Kohler. All the wiring is simple except for the auto idle. Haven't tackled that yet due to the mechanical portion. Go Kohler with lovejoy couplers. If interested I have pictures of what I did.
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moe1942 View Post
I threw the onan on my bob cat in the trash. Replaced it with a 23HP Kohler. All the wiring is simple except for the auto idle. Haven't tackled that yet due to the mechanical portion. Go Kohler with lovejoy couplers. If interested I have pictures of what I did.
Moe....

as I recall you posted a very detailed log as well as many pics in a thread over on the Millerwelds site several years ago.... should still be there...

I guess it may have been a whole series of threads and posts as you progressed through the resurrection of that Bobcat.... well worth digging up.... from engine conversion... through wiring quirks... and flashing the windings.....
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Last edited by H80N; 06-14-2012 at 03:18 PM.
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  #10  
Old 06-14-2012, 06:29 PM
RandomDave RandomDave is offline
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Wow, thanks for the interest guys! I'll try and respond to everyone and answer the questions I can. Let me know if you need better pictures of anything to help out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokinDodge View Post
ooofff.

Ill be back in the morning with fresher eyes.

Is S2 the ignition/master switch?
Yes it is. It controls the ignition and also allows you to set the welder to low or high idle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post
The biggest Issue I have is we do not know how much power the welder needs, we can check that with a DC amp clamp
BUT we also need to know how much reserve power the New engines alternator can supply ?

If the alternator is not large enough you may fry it and or its regulator.

===

Then there is the one or two Solenoids on the old motor, what did they do?
I assume one is fast idle maybe for 120 volt power, and maybe one for fast run for welding.

Is this an issue ?
I believe I am ok as far as the alternator is concerned. I believe my biggest power draw is using the electric starter. Other than that I mostly need 12V to excite the rings I think?
===
I think your right, as there was a low idle position as well as a high idle position on the old motor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
Terminal #1 on the left of the revolving field is negative or ground common with the hour (12 volt) meter.

The other terminal is the hot wire that exccites the field. I do not know what R1 and R2 values are. You need + DC voltage there for the welder to put out AC or DC welding power or your 120 v AC.

Can you check for + and - volts at the slip ring?

Starter and alternator are no big deal. Perhaps to get it welding first would be easiest.

R1 may be the knob for adjusting output. Is F1 OK?

David
From what I understand #1 is ground and #2 is positive going to the revolving field, correct?
I am unsure of the R1 and R2 values as well.
I am unsure of how I should check for the voltage at the slip rings. Do I check it with the engine running? Or am I looking for resistance with the rotor stationary? -Sorry I'm fairly green with electrical.
I agree, I have the ignition, starter, and alternator working on the new engine. It just isn't hooked up the the welder, it is independent right now.
Yes, Fuses F1 and F2 are both good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by moe1942 View Post
I threw the onan on my bob cat in the trash. Replaced it with a 23HP Kohler. All the wiring is simple except for the auto idle. Haven't tackled that yet due to the mechanical portion. Go Kohler with lovejoy couplers. If interested I have pictures of what I did.
Moe, I would be very interested in seeing how you've done your engine swap, as well as any pictures or diagrams of the electrical would be quite handy to me as well!
Im not concerned about the auto-idler either, the new engine has a mechanical throttle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post
post a link to the miller bobcat 225 manual that you are using.

I see an Oil kill switch on the old wiring.

Do you have a diagram for the new engine?

Need to decipher S2. it had/feeds power to the engine.
The diagram for a bobcat and this welder is slightly different. The pictures I posted are taken with a camera from the inside of the metal shrouds on the welder.
No I unfortunately do not have a diagram for the new engine. But it is wired up and working independently from the welder.
S2 is the ignition/ idle/ master switch. I'll attach a picture of it.
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