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#1
06-13-2012, 09:28 PM
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Electrical bypass for welder.
So I went ahead and did an engine swap with a different engine and now I have a wiring harness that I need to decipher and wire up to the new engine to get it working properly. As of right now, I have no welding output or auxiliary power. Are there any electrical gurus in the house who can help me wire it up while keeping the smoke from getting out? The area in red in the second picture is all stuff that was all on the old engine and is now disconnected. I do have a starter, alternator, and 12V battery on the new engine but it is all wired independently from the welder. 
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#2
06-13-2012, 10:05 PM
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post a link to the miller bobcat 225 manual that you are using.
I see an Oil kill switch on the old wiring. Do you have a diagram for the new engine? Need to decipher S2. it had/feeds power to the engine.
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* * The factory of the future will have only two employees, a man and a dog. The man will be there to feed the dog. The dog will be there to keep the man from touching the equipment. ~Warren G. Bennis
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#3
06-13-2012, 11:35 PM
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ooofff.
Ill be back in the morning with fresher eyes. Is S2 the ignition/master switch?
__________________
The guy that said money can't buy happiness never bought a tank of fuel for a turbo diesel.............
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#4
06-13-2012, 11:49 PM
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After a quick glance it looks like you need your 12 volts to excite your field through the switch.
Wish I was familiar with the unit.
__________________
Living the country life Learning boils down to "Repetition or the avoidance of pain", some people learn by doing, some by watching and some have to pee on the electric fence. - Norm W. Mathew 10:36 And a man's foes shall be they of his own household -Ironman quoting the Bible
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#5
06-13-2012, 11:57 PM
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The biggest Issue I have is we do not know how much power the welder needs, we can check that with a DC amp clamp
BUT we also need to know how much reserve power the New engines alternator can supply ? If the alternator is not large enough you may fry it and or its regulator. === Then there is the one or two Solenoids on the old motor, what did they do? I assume one is fast idle maybe for 120 volt power, and maybe one for fast run for welding. Is this an issue ?
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* * The factory of the future will have only two employees, a man and a dog. The man will be there to feed the dog. The dog will be there to keep the man from touching the equipment. ~Warren G. Bennis
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#6
06-14-2012, 05:22 AM
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Terminal #1 on the left of the revolving field is negative or ground common with the hour (12 volt) meter.
The other terminal is the hot wire that exccites the field. I do not know what R1 and R2 values are. You need + DC voltage there for the welder to put out AC or DC welding power or your 120 v AC. Can you check for + and - volts at the slip ring? Starter and alternator are no big deal. Perhaps to get it welding first would be easiest. R1 may be the knob for adjusting output. Is F1 OK? David
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V350 pro with advanced panel Bunch of other Lincoln machines Hypertherm 600 Arcmaster 185 Estwing BFH Enough knowledge to get into trouble
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#7
06-14-2012, 08:29 AM
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Don't forget that in picture 2 wire #33 is a ground that needs to be completed through the plug. If you have that plug disconnected from the new motor your not grounded either.
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Tony “Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without”
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#8
06-14-2012, 09:51 AM
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I threw the onan on my bob cat in the trash. Replaced it with a 23HP Kohler. All the wiring is simple except for the auto idle. Haven't tackled that yet due to the mechanical portion. Go Kohler with lovejoy couplers. If interested I have pictures of what I did.
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Don't pick a fight with an old man. If he is too old to fight, he'll just kill you... John Steinbeck "If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under". ~Ronald Reagan We should have picked our own cotton... I love my women hot and my beer ice cold..
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#9
06-14-2012, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
as I recall you posted a very detailed log as well as many pics in a thread over on the Millerwelds site several years ago.... should still be there...  I guess it may have been a whole series of threads and posts as you progressed through the resurrection of that Bobcat.... well worth digging up.... from engine conversion... through wiring quirks... and flashing the windings..... 
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. . Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain..  The more you Know, The Better you Know, How little you Know (old Estonian saying) Last edited by H80N; 06-14-2012 at 03:18 PM.
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#10
06-14-2012, 06:29 PM
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Wow, thanks for the interest guys! I'll try and respond to everyone and answer the questions I can. Let me know if you need better pictures of anything to help out.
Quote:
Quote:
=== I think your right, as there was a low idle position as well as a high idle position on the old motor. Quote:
I am unsure of the R1 and R2 values as well. I am unsure of how I should check for the voltage at the slip rings. Do I check it with the engine running? Or am I looking for resistance with the rotor stationary? -Sorry I'm fairly green with electrical. I agree, I have the ignition, starter, and alternator working on the new engine. It just isn't hooked up the the welder, it is independent right now. Yes, Fuses F1 and F2 are both good. Quote:
Im not concerned about the auto-idler either, the new engine has a mechanical throttle. Quote:
No I unfortunately do not have a diagram for the new engine. But it is wired up and working independently from the welder. S2 is the ignition/ idle/ master switch. I'll attach a picture of it.
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