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Old 01-02-2016, 08:38 AM
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Ironman Ironman is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Warburg, Alberta, Canada
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Originally Posted by ShawnR View Post
Wow, that was fast! Thanks Ironman. That is exactly what I was hoping for in a reply.

Are you suggesting it might be just hard to get the bead started? Any idea if flashing it would make it more usable? I tried 7018 but probably my DC rod. I also tried some 3/32 6013, 1/8 7024, and could not get it to run a bead.

If you want to see an unbelievable difference in the arc, wind up a reactor coil from the heaviest magnet wire you can buy, 00 or #000 and it will be smooth as butter. The coil should be wound on a 2" x8" piece of round hot rolled stock, with the coil OD 4"+ diameter.

There is a coil just like this description under the base. Do you mean another or I wonder if someone already put one in. It all looks factory. I do have some very old large capacitors. Might have to experiment some more.

Yes, agree on the "rubber band" :-) It was all I had last night. I can get some more today but want to make sure it will work ok. I have been throwing money at this project for years but don't even need it so now it is just pigheadeness (is that a word?) that keeps me plodding along.
OK, good that you have a reactor. Flashing will do nothing for you, the gen is already working. It only is useful when you have a gen that will not self excite. This is a DC machine, so 7018 rod is perfect for it. I really think I would buy a new Multi-Band belt for it, before you do anything else. And then check the rpm.
These are not bad machines, difficult to strike compared to modern welders but the penetration and weld quality is very good. Also check all connections on the control circuit for corrosion and high resistance. The only place resistance should occur in that control circuit is in the wire wound rheostat. Remember this is only 28 volts so 1 ohm of resistance on a connection is a serious effect. This control limits feedback voltage to the field coils and determines the amperage output. You literally should see a stuck rod melt off as these buggers put out serious current.
Also, as a determining factor on getting it right, a stuck rod should almost stall or drag down the rpm of that V4. It would stall a 36 hp VW engine, but I had a 12" driving pulley on the engine.

I bet you can't here a load on the engine with your setup.

EDIT really check the rpm. The V4 should be governed at about 24-2500 rpm, and you may not be anywhere near 3500 on that gen.
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