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Old 05-17-2009, 06:10 PM
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Lu47Dan Lu47Dan is offline
Connoisseur of Old Iron
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: N/W Pa.
Posts: 5,973

Originally Posted by kbs2244 View Post
I have never done a whole system with copper and epoxy.
Just quick and dirty add ons where the flame may have been a little less than a good idea.
I preped it like always.
Good and clean inside and outside.
I just used the side by side epoxy stuff that you squeeze out on a piece of paper and mix.
Put a good coat on the outside of the male piece, push it in, give it a 1/4 turn back and forth and wait 24 hours.
I think maybe twice in water systems and maybe 4 times in air.
The air systems never got above 140 PSI
Okay . Most of the time when I have to add to an air system it is done with a torch as people don't want to wait to use it .
Originally Posted by shoprat View Post
I often worry about burning down the house, when working on some copper piping. Most of my concern is in the old houses with walls stuffed full of newspaper for insulation. So,the glue may be an option.
Sweating fitting will be covered later in this thread , including tips and tricks for using a torch around flammable materials .
Originally Posted by shoprat View Post
I saw an O-ring crimp style system, on this old house, but that is a pretty spendy tool. mark
Mark , Pro-Press systems are expensive . The crimping tool can run over $1000 dollars for a small one . The fittings are not cheap either , unless the time savings in man hours add up to over the extra cost of the fittings then they do not made sense to use . I have used Pro-Press tools and fittings on several jobs and they worked fine . It is a nice system but I would not say that it is living up to the time saving that it initially promised .
Originally Posted by Mild Steel View Post
This is a good thread!! The only thing I disagree with is angling the distribution line so water drains back to the compressor tank. I like to angle it to drain away from the compressor so the condensate is going with the air flow. Most home shops can be easily set up to do this. Complex industrial installations must have multiple drains through the system because it is impossible to run all the pipe to drain to one location.
Pitching the piping to a drain leg is better then running it back into the compressor tank , unless your tank is set up with an automatic drain , If you have an auto drain then it makes sense to let it remove the moisture from the system . When running the drops a central drip leg can be installed into the system with all the lines pitched to it , then the drain leg can be vented outside or into a floor drain . If the drain leg is vented to the outside of the building make sure it is in a safe location and pointed down to the ground so you do not injury someone that happens to be passing by .
If you think about how air acts under pressure , you will soon realize that when you are not using the air , it is setting in a static unmoving state in which water can and does flow to the lowest point in the system . If you really study how you utilize your air system , you will find that most of the time the system is static and the water can flow freely one way or the other . I can see why some advocate for the pitch to be back to the tank , if you drain your tank religiously then you get the condensate out of the whole system when you do , but if you are like me and drain my drip legs two to three times a month ( more if the system has done a lot of work ) then the drain leg system works well .
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Miller XMT-304 Multiprocess
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