DIY Farm Impliments
 

I figure it's best to start a clean thread on this build we talked about in Math Help
Got many ideas and just scribbled them down and flopped back on the couch. I'm finally getting over this cold and I detected a trickle on energy yesterday so I've started the build of this critter.

I decided to go with a couple of rusted up drive shafts from something I scraped.
This will be the eccentric or crank, or whatever to shake things. After watching those video's I posted, I decided that the stroke will be what ever it is, I can't see a problem if they manufacture something like that.

Yesterday I hammered together the A frame, and today I tack welded the bearing box into place. This is all leftovers and scrap so it ain't pretty.
y next job is to mount the blade in the mill and sharpen an edge, then I'll tack weld it to the side bars and see how it looks.
I had given some thought to using some tie rod ends from a 12,000lb steering axle for the crank ends and the end on the blade lever, but not having a spare to push into a hole in the plate to swage the taper in, and not knowing how they would last in rotary motion killed the idea. Pressing is the only way I have at hand to do a short taper.

Pic 1 is a similar driveline in the way I will use it
Pic 2 is showing what is done
#3 and 4 is self explanatory as to what the U joint will do
So this is it, at the moment, If I have a good day tomorrow, I'll report more.

This isn't what I'd imagined from your sketches. A picture really is worth a thousand words.

I like the bearing arrangement a lot. Not so much the big overhang at the crank though...

Having a job I want to do usually trumps health issues. Good luck there.

The crank overhang is the only way I could think of to create a bearing of sufficient strength, and as usual all things are subject to rebuild and modification. The more I look at videos, like Camdiggers latest, the more I realize there is not that much power required and my tendency to overbuild 300% is not necessary.

Anyhow, off to the shop to see if I can clamp the blade to the table and mill a cutting edge.

Lookin good....

That reminds me of the mechanic that made the brakes so strong he broke the suspension loose. It makes it easy to find the weak links. ;)

You are playing a game I enjoy all the time, which is making use of spare parts and good "junk" that is currently taking up both physical space, and space in my mental inventory.

I managed to clamp the T1 plate at an angle on the mill table and it made a surprisingly easy job of putting an edge onto it. Then I cut and tacked the vertical bars to the blade and a piece of 2x2x1/4" wall box tube to the top of it.
I ran out of juice and quit till tomorrow, but I'm thinking about how to do the next step, which will be attaching the blade.

I know I am missing something, just have to wait and see what you come up with. How is the slip yoke not going to slip?

The slip yoke was rusted solid and even red hot would not move, same as the one in my first picture. So I cut it off, and will weld a piece of pipe onto it as a con rod.
I'm thinking I may be able to whack off a piece of the other driveline with the U joint and use that pipe as the con rod, one I figure the length..

I also see that I should have quit while I was ahead yesterday as I tack welded the knife blade upside down, and will have to cut the little welds and flip it over before final welding. I'll leave it for now and work on the pivot points.

Just to clarify the project in my mind, you are basically building a shaking noble plow except the the blade is supported on the ends as opposed to the middle correct

Noble plows I've seen typically have swept blades like a back wards duck foot. Gerry's bed lifter blade is straight across. Gerry's might cut 4-8" deep while most cultivators like the Noble plow rarely cut more than 5".