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kbs2244 12-18-2016 07:39 PM

curves
 
What is amazing to me is how many are not just straight pieces with an angle
Instead there are curves that are organic, almost sinuous.

It goes beyond just “good work.”

TEK 12-18-2016 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toprecycler (Post 676895)
Thinking some more about the top rail tube. If it was not vented, when they hear it in the oven to cure the powder coating, I guess it could expand more being sealed and break the powder coating? Does this sound like a likely reason? I guess they redid it twice and still had the same problem. Brian

Those spots on the top rail, was there something in that hole?. Like some foreign object left there because they didn't get the surface prep done right?

Did you have them make up some matching paint, so you can touch up bad spots?

I dunno if that top tube being sealed would act that way. If it's swole from the heat it's expanded, if it gets sprayed and baked like that and then cooled the coating would be in compression, I could see losing big patches of paint that way but I don't think powder coat would act that way.

Also, how many times do they take it in and out of the oven, it would not take long to cool and just guessing on the volume inside the tubing I don't see it flexing all that much in the hot/cold/hot cycles. The corners on the tubing tells me it's .120, I think, I don't really think the temp change is going to do that to the powder.

toprecycler 09-09-2017 03:23 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Installed some more handrails today. It all fit like it was designed, except for the last piece connecting the basement steps to the deck steps. Boss wanted to run it at angle, which I don't really like myself, but I don't sign my own paycheck, so his way it is.[emoji4]

I did not cut the angles right, so a little field grinding, and fill a big gap, got it done. I used a small 110 wire welder with self shielding wire in the field. It welded up pretty nice.
We have to finish paint all the gray steel Black now. The customer has been going back in forth on the paint colors since February when we first installed the upper roof frame tubes.

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toprecycler 09-09-2017 03:26 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Some more pics. I wanted all the rail ends to line up if you look down the ends. I managed to get it pretty good.

Also some pics is inside stair rails.Attachment 140938Attachment 140939Attachment 140940Attachment 140941


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LW Hiway 09-16-2017 08:34 AM

Brian, I've watched your finished creations since day one and I just have to gig you on something you obviously do wrong in a big way.

Why is it that none of your connections and ends and hangers look like they were just made willy nilly to fit as best as could be faked?

There is a place I've worked at for awhile and all of the railings found for safety's sake must have looked nice while sitting in someone's shop prefabbed, but once on site, nothing seems to want to fit, sit or look like it was made to fit what foundations were on site.

Obviously, your not playing the same games here. lol

PROPS

Nice work dude.

toprecycler 09-16-2017 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LW Hiway (Post 694412)
Brian, I've watched your finished creations since day one and I just have to gig you on something you obviously do wrong in a big way.

Why is it that none of your connections and ends and hangers look like they were just made willy nilly to fit as best as could be faked?

There is a place I've worked at for awhile and all of the railings found for safety's sake must have looked nice while sitting in someone's shop prefabbed, but once on site, nothing seems to want to fit, sit or look like it was made to fit what foundations were on site.

Obviously, your not playing the same games here. lol

PROPS

Nice work dude.



Thanks Lew. I appreciate the compliment. It took years of practice to get it somewhat right. The real secret is don't take pictures of the ones that don't come out right!

I do have to give my boss credit for one thing though. He usually will not let something slide through cutting corners. He always tried to make sure the work we do is top notch. (Although in the last year, I have noticed some inclinations to not take the time to do a top notch job when the job is $@@&@ up from the start, why should we be the only ones that care about it being right, and this is starting to get me in trouble. He says one thing, and then when I start making some compromises, he busts my chops for them. I need to start getting in writing the quality he expects for any given job)[emoji4]

I find if I take good field measurements, and then draw the job up in turbo cad software, design the rail holding to 1/64" tolerances, cut to within 1/32", by the time the welds warp the rail it will still fit fairly well. I am starting to get a little faster. I have to realize what dimensions are important depending on how the rail mounts. And if you really want the rail to look straight after installing, you really can't trust carpenters to keep walls straight, or masons to keep floors straight or level. String lines can be a good place to start measuring, or laser levels.

And, you can never take too many measurements. I always still seem to forget one or two. Usually on the job that is an hour away.[emoji4] I usually dread when the boss is with me, because he is always in a hurry to get back. And he like to shortcut this process, but I feel it makes us look much better when the rails fit the first time, without having to modify them in the field ( which we had done a lot until I started doing the cad drawings) And, if I do the drawings, then the rest of the build seems to go a lot faster if I am doing the work then.






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toprecycler 09-16-2017 09:19 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Some fab pics of the rails I put together today. I was trying to keep a simple straight rail, but was overruled and had to offset the top post to the side 3", and then wrap the bottom to return to the face of the wall. Probably each extra joint adds 45 minutes to overall fab time of the rail. Pipe can be challenging to keep the miters cuts straight on each end. It took me about 1 1/2 hours to cut 19 pcs. I was also careful to keep the weld seam of the pipe to the bottom, or least noticeable side, since it can sometimes really stand out in the finished product.


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toprecycler 09-16-2017 09:33 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Hopefully the details of the mount plates show up. The floor mounted plates are Stainless Steel. Holds up better against rusting.

Also a before pic of stairs where two rails are going. Hopefully I will be installing and get an after pic.

I guess the owners father told my coworker that he does not like the connection hand rail run at an angle on the outside steps. He wants it to drop down straight, and then go across level to the basement step rail. Which is how I wanted to do it, but shall see what the boss allows me to do. I actually think that would have been easier to fab anyways. That compound miter still is puzzling me how it should have been cut. At least I have good glue in the welder wire to fill gaps!Attachment 141069Attachment 141070Attachment 141071Attachment 141072



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toprecycler 09-21-2017 05:22 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Well, I had to follow my previous advice. Don't take pics of ones that don't fit. I drew up the drawing wrong, so the two rails did not fit. Boss tossed them back into the truck( literally)[emoji4].

After I fixed my drawing, I had to cut one joint apart, shorten the main rail by 6 1/2" and adjust the miter angles, reweld, cleanup and repaint. The paint did not quite dry completely, but was under the gun do had to install it a little tacky the next day.Attachment 141150Attachment 141151Attachment 141152


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toprecycler 10-03-2017 07:51 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I can really make a mess to make 2 small rails. Amazing how many tools and shim blocks I use. Had to make 2 more rails to satisfy the building inspector. Will try to get installed pics so they make more sense.Attachment 141372Attachment 141373Attachment 141374


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