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Randyjaco 12-14-2020 10:03 AM

Help with a Trajan Bandsaw
I am in the midst of a restoration of Trajan 1018 bandsaw. It's Chinese and they don't make them anymore :( I have been searching the Internet for days and can find very little information. Evidently, the Trajan bandsaw company is no more. I downloaded a manual off the Web, but it just shows the parts list/diagram. I desperately need a wiring diagram. I could also use some information on filling and bleeding the hydraulic cylinder. Also if you have a picture of how the blade cleaning brush mounts lt would really be helpful.
Thanks, any info/ leads would be helpful, as I am now in assembly mode.

greywynd 12-14-2020 01:24 PM

Maybe post some pics of the saw, often they are sold under various names, there may be another saw the same with info available.

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Scotts 12-14-2020 01:36 PM

Oh man a challenge!! :):)

How about some pictures of what you have and where you are with the electrical stuff.

Most small bandsaws are a toggle switch for off and on. It this is a monster with auto feed auto vise and such it will need a few more items.

Should not be too difficult, (shhh, don't let it hear me type that)

It is probably a copy of something and we can adapt.


digr 12-14-2020 02:04 PM

I found their website but both IE and Firefox tell me not to go there:confused:

Randyjaco 12-14-2020 07:33 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I got the saw several months ago. It was not running. I have since disassembled, cleaned, painted, and begun reassembly. It is a 3 phase machine and both motors run well. I am still waiting on a blade and some switches, which should be here in a couple of weeks. I took a lot of pictures of the wiring, etc., but the starter is a mystery. There were also a couple of disconnected wires.:mad: I am electrically challenged, so I am a little leary of plugging in wires and powering her up with 220 three-phase :eek: It is a tad bit over my competency level.
Hopfully these pictures will load?

Scotts 12-14-2020 08:10 PM

That is a fine looking job there.

Let’s start with a couple things.

Two motors. I will venture a guess one is for the blade. What is the other one for? Coolant or hydraulics?

What kind of switches did you get?

Ok a picture where your starters are and do you have a transformer in there as well?

This will tell us if you have low voltage controls or line voltage control.

If you have momentary buttons you may have a 3 wire start stop setup.

If you have maintained switches you may have a 2 wire start stop setup.

Either way we can help you out with all that.


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digr 12-14-2020 08:43 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Can you take a pic of the brush? I would think that if you removed the hose in the picture and put in hydraulic fluid and loosen the other then raise the saw should get you started like bleeding breaks

Scotts 12-14-2020 09:05 PM

How is this for a manual?

There are several pages of electrical schematics covering the options.

See if you see any that look like it fits.

I’ll go for the 220v 60hz 3 phase page.


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toprecycler 12-14-2020 10:39 PM

3 Attachment(s)
That is very similar to my saw at work. I believe it is a Jet.

I had to just reseal the Hydraulics valve on it. And it was a pain in the A$$. The piston inside the cylinder has a check valve (I believe, but did not tear it down to verify) that allows the fluid to bypass when you lift the saw up. When you release the saw, it should stay right where you put it, if you have the valves shut. If it bounces, you have an air bubble in the line. The way to fill it is a small plug in the side of the valve.

You need to remove the valve from the panel so you can raise the side of the valve with the plug to the top. I used an old plastic bottle with a small spout and filled it with hydraulic fluid.

I forgot exactly how I did it, but I think I closed the variable speed valve, opened the on/off flow valve, then raised the saw( pulled the rod out). (I actually removed the cylinder and valve setup without removing the hoses, and set it up in my lathe, where I clamped the valve up high, and could use the carriage to push the rod in and out easily.)

Close the on/off valve, which should be a 1/4 turn valve. Now push the rod in. As you do, open the variable valve. Oil and air will flow back into the bottle. Close the variable valve. You will have created an vacuum on the other side, so when you open the on/off valve, oil will be sucked back into that line as you continue to press the rod back into the cylinder.

When the oil stops going in, close that valve. Then pull the rod back out. This will fill the cylinder with fresh oil via the bypass valve in the piston. Push the rod back into the cylinder, and open the variable flow valve again to let the air bubbles back out. It is important to always keep the fill plug hole filled with oil, but allow air to escape. But you want to make sure that only oil goes back in.

If you do not get all the air out, the saw will bounce up and down during cutting, and is very hard on blades then.

When I got done, I think I actually had a bit of pressure in the lines by creating a vacuum to suck the oil in.
Attachment 158823Attachment 158824Attachment 158825

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Randyjaco 12-15-2020 07:52 PM


Originally Posted by Scotts (Post 765179)
How is this for a manual?

There are several pages of electrical schematics covering the options.

See if you see any that look like it fits.

I’ll go for the 220v 60hz 3 phase page.


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Thanks Scott!
It appears that a Bolton and a Trajan are the same saw. That will help immensely.


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