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-   -   Make ubolts with threaded rod (https://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37852)

Vern2 04-10-2013 11:42 AM

Make ubolts with threaded rod
 
1 Attachment(s)
I got an education on this last year. Thanks for all who replied.

Thought I would I may add a step to the process. First this is my shop drawing for a shop die that will fit my shop press. Picture 1

Material:
1/2" - 16 threaded rod.

Problem: - Threaded rod cracks when it's bent into U.

My thought is to cut threaded rod into 10" pieces. Then Place end of rod into lathe chuck and turn off the threads in middle of rod for about 5 inches, or so.

Would this be a solution?

Vern2 04-10-2013 11:52 AM

In the lathe it's easy to face one end of threaded rod and center drill rod. Install a live center, Chuck up threaded rod and take two .015" cuts, That will be the height of the .060" threads. The rod in the center will be turned down to 3/8" of a inch in diameter. Now try bending it.

The old project needed 70 each 1/2" u-bolts for 2" tubing for $6 each for $350.

milomilo 04-10-2013 12:35 PM

I use cold roll and thread only the ends and bend in the middle. Won't machining off the threads in the center of the rod make the it the weak point of the ubolt? Maybe I did not understand your plan???

digger doug 04-10-2013 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by milomilo (Post 544032)
Won't machining off the threads in the center of the rod make the it the weak point of the ubolt? Maybe I did not understand your plan???

It is the weak point in pure tension. but removing the threads removes
the v-notch that is causing the failure in bending.

Scotts 04-10-2013 01:53 PM

Heat them where you want them to bend, I do not know if they will stand up for what you want to do after heating. Cold bending breaks them every time.

Scott

tnmike 04-10-2013 02:57 PM

You can heat them at the bend and make them. Even with heat you will still have a stress riser in a bend which makes it prone to failure.

dubby 04-10-2013 02:58 PM

I don't get why you don't just thread regular rod after it's bent?

milomilo 04-10-2013 03:15 PM

Here is how I made mine. See post 15.

http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=35631

Vern2 04-10-2013 06:02 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Had a stroke, don't want to thread 140 legs of U bolts with one arm. 1/2" bolts are way over kill, 1/4" would do.

I'm attaching 2" x 4" purlins to a hoop house frame, to attach 80 percent UV cloth to shade vegetable garden, Picture 1. Planning on building raised block garden beds.

My new tool room is coming along. Layout drawing Picture 2. Some building stuff.

Walker 04-10-2013 06:54 PM

Seems like an awful lot of work that could be better spent on your other projects. Why don't you either bend flat bar with two holes in the ends into a U with legs, another plate with matching holes and use bolts. Or, and an even better idea I think, is to bend plain hot rolled round bar 3/8" and weld studs cut from your all thread onto the sides. You would be done a heck of a lot quicker and it would be stronger to boot! If you saved time here you could even fire up your GoTorch and cut out the end plates.

Scrapper Greg 04-10-2013 09:22 PM

After reading this and seeing about the stroke. My first thought was muffler clamps. Might have to spotface the purlins. But would work. Here's a place that might have just what you are looking for. https://www.boltdepot.com/U-Bolts_Ro...l_5_16-18.aspx

Vern2 04-10-2013 09:47 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Walker,

One reason I'm stuck with U-bolts is getting a permit. Welding up some kind of contraption doesn't go over good with the city. Yes I got the permit, just have not figured out the building process yet. Still trying to cut down on $350 for
u - bolts.

Uncle, that's works. I just have to keep 2x4's from sliding off hoop house, pic 1. I'm stapling the UV to the 2x4's. I have a good size UV shade over court yard in front of house. It's stapled and stays put. Been there for around 4 years, pic 2. I know this process works.

I'm a compost junkie, was moving piles around tonight. I'm supplying compost for everyone but me. I got to get on the ball and ready 4" pipe and borders for garden.

I planing on bending my own tubing in 3 sections. Then splice, I'll use 1 3/4" tubing and use 2" pipe as slip joints, then stitch weld. I'll have to get my power tube roller running first.

dubby 04-10-2013 11:30 PM

Vern, how many will fit in a flat rate box? I got kids for that...


I wasn't aware that you had a stroke and were only working with one arm, I can see how that might be a task for sure. But, I'll tell ya one thing after dealing with the after-effects of my Dad's stroke for 15 years... I'm damned proud of you sir. Keep up the good work and keep at it no matter how you end up accomplishing your tasks. He lost use of one arm, and about 3/4 use of one leg and pretty well gave up.

Walker 04-10-2013 11:30 PM

Shouldn't need a permit for that, no foundation, no permanent walls, it is not a permanent structure. Really, it is more like a tent, and you don't need a permit for those. What city are you in?
Why are you opposed to making a real ubolt? I made a ton of them on my rigid 300, then bent them up on the Hossfeld type bender. Made 100 in one evening. You are going to spend far longer turning those down then you would threading them. The ungraded threaded rod is just plain ol' crappy metal. I can almost guarantee failure on that system

Also, a fabbed strap with two bolts is going to be equally strong, if not more so, and far easier to make. I can't imagine you would have any sort of trouble passing an inspection with that. How many of these ubolts do you need?

What kind of permit did they sell you, and what inspections are required?

JWS 04-11-2013 04:20 AM

If you are attaching 2x4's to an existing frame, what about drilling a hole and using a carriage bolt to bolt the 2x4 to the frame? Or, drill through the frame and from the bottom side into the 2x4 deck screw the board to the frame?

bunkclimber 04-11-2013 07:03 AM

u-bolts/substitute
 
they do make zip-ties(wire ties,ty-wrap,nylon ties)in a heavy design,very strong,usually black in color,1/2"wide x 3/16"thick-sunlight resistant as well..will hold anything with 100lbs+breaking strength

Vern2 04-11-2013 07:57 AM

bunkclimber,

Live in Phoenix, the sun cooks plastic and make it brittle. I got couple 100 foot of gray 1 1/2" electrical conduit. Where the sun got to it, it turn it black, I thought it was a short in the electrical wire, but when I scraped it, it was only on the surface. Plastic bags left in the sun turns to dust. It stays 115 degrees for a week at a time, no clouds, very dry, very good for solar.

JWS,

Carriage bolt is a good idea working 10' in the air drilling with one arm won't work. I guess I should say, pushing U bolts around 1 3/4" tubing, then through 2 holes in 2x4, the U-bolt will stick in place. A plate on the top couple nuts, done. I'm looking at easy to put together.

dubby, Soon after I gave up on rehab.

Walker,

You need a permit for a tent in Gilbert, I asked. If a fence is over 2 feet you need a permit.

I built a Solar ramada 30' x 30' I had made some 1/4" x 6" x 6" wide plate welded in an H to hold the beams on top of 6" x 6" x 8' post. The city said "Where is the test results for that bracket?" The only structure for shade allowed (no permit) is a retractable surface. I had to buy 16 gauge brackets from Home Depot $900 worth of brackets, that was load tested.

My wife really doesn't want a garden, so I'm building shade and raised garden boxes. 3' wide 2' high. This way she sets on side of boxes and does her garden stuff in the shade, setting down.

I actually got the permit for the full size building in above post. I had a County assuror walk up to me while I was doing tractor work in front of property. He had paper work with my name and the building inspectors name on it. He was looking for the structural. Gilbert never called me saying they approved my drawings. I just need to pick it up, it's all payed for. I know sort of a hocky deal, but it's approved.

Scrapper Greg 04-11-2013 12:27 PM

Vern, could you predrill the hoops and purlins before they are put up? That way you don't have to do the balancing act with a drill.

jim hasslinger 04-11-2013 04:53 PM

Why not use 2 hole conduit straps and wood screws to hold everything together?

JIM

Vern2 04-12-2013 09:15 AM

Scrapper Greg,

Great link and good prices.

If the music doesn't not get to you, here is a poly tunnel build. Most tunnels are built for cold weather. I need one for hot weather, go figure.

Here is a big one, with more detail build.


Walker,

Lots of projects. Here is a progress report on GoTorch.


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