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Shade Tree Welder 06-21-2020 09:56 AM

Forge Build
Well, now that the kid's Grand Am is up and running, yeah I need to update
that thread as well, been running for about 2 weeks I reorganized the outside
shop and created a hot work area. So I need to build a forge. I was chatting
with our resident expert Blacksmith, and she gave me some great advice as
always. I have an old portable air tank I am going to use. It was ten years out
of certification so I replaced with a HF version I picked up for $30 USD. Both
are the 11 gallon size. So the old one will be the shell for the forge. Since a lot
of firebrick comes in 9 x 4.5 x 1.25 inch dimensions I will line the forge with 12
of those in a hexagon pattern and 2 lengths or 18" long. The cylinder on the
old tank is about 20" in length. I will use brick for the doors/gates on either
side. KISS will be heavily involved in this build. I will be using a naturally
aspirated T-burner (x3) for this build. Need to buy the plumbing parts and
regulator for it. I will have the burners, etc. removable as this will live outside.

Matt Shade 06-21-2020 10:58 AM

Fire brick is great for a floor, but it soaks up a lot of heat. If you want to be able to do quick projects or use the forge for simple bends when repairing stuff you might want to consider Kaowool and a thin coat of satanite. This will get the forge up to working temp about twice as fast as what bricks will. It isn't quite as durable but if you are careful loading the forge its not bad. I get several years out of a liner.
I buy all of that stuff from Darren Ellis, he re-packages the stuff in smaller quantities and I've always gotten good service.

I think you might find that 3 burners is overkill for a forge that size unless they are pretty small. My forge is made with a 25 gallon compressor tank but there is a hollow in the bottom and the top has 2 inches of kaowool so the volume isn't enormous and I can weld in it with 2 home made medium sized pipe burners.

I actually have a valve on mine to shut one burner down but I never use it because the burner acts like a chimney and the gas lines at the top start getting hot. I need to come up with a way to block it off.

toprecycler 06-21-2020 11:01 AM

Forge Build
1 Attachment(s)
Come on up to my place for some free firebrick for SFT members! Or pay shipping costs.[emoji4]

Sent from my iPhone using ShopFloAttachment 156536orTalk

seagiant 06-22-2020 10:21 AM

1 Attachment(s)
+1 on the K-Wool and Satanite.

Propane forges is about saving fuel, this involves time as the gas is always burning.

Another thing savings are increased by using a forced air system instead of the naturally aspirated. (air is free!)

Remember you have to use a quite higher gas pressure to get the burner to pull in air to burn correctly.

Another plus is the forced air burner is also easier to build.

Here is a pic showing what I am building now and with the K-Wool and Satinite

Should give me the most economical forge I can build and will be able to forge weld easily and quickly!

bigb 06-22-2020 08:25 PM

I used Kaowool as well then a layer of Kast-o-lite refractory over that. My doors are hinged in the front with fire brick liners (the real light, white porous fire brick) with an oval observation/stock hole in the middle. A 1/4" steel flap in back for long stock to pass thru. I utilized a 1/4" bypass line with a needle valve so I can reduce the gas flow to a minimum when not heating, and the small flame keeps the forge warm for really quick re-heats. Instead of the popular cylinder shape I chose a larger pipe and cut it down into a "D" shape and welded plate to the bottom so the floor is big and flat. I have pics somewhere.....

To cure the Kast-O-Lite I dragged home a discarded electric range and hooked it up on the back porch and went through the stepped curing process, came out nice and solid.

Walker 06-22-2020 08:41 PM

Well Shade, I will have to say I am with the others on the firebrick,
I use Kaowool. You might be justified if it lives outside not covered, otherwise use the wool. I use bricks for both front and back doors so I can reposition them, r build extensions based on the work. Put a valve on each burner. You can brick off parts of the forge so it doesnt need to be heated every time.
I have built lots of burners and placed them every different direction. Stay away from burner positions promising vortices or any other funny words. Point ‘em straight down to the floor. Build your own pipe burners and put a 90 degree elbow in them. That way when the forge goes off the heat doesn't rise through the burner really fast and cook your orifice. If you use an elbow burner you can leave it installed outside all the time with nothing damaging happening.

Tim KS 06-22-2020 10:23 PM

I was interested in building a forge a few years ago....... ...but lately the hammer seems too heavy. :D

digger doug 06-23-2020 06:28 AM

I always thought this one would be handy for all the various work I see
around here:

Shade Tree Welder 06-23-2020 10:58 AM

Hey thanks for all the input! I have fucked around with Kaowool in the past.
Fuck that, hate the shit. Hate fiberglass, hell I don't care much for steel wool
either. It a personal thing. I also have a thread running over on IForgeIron as
well and I will be going with Insulating Fire Bricks, IFB's. Fast heat up like with
the Kaowool, I will still use some hard brick to protect the floor and provide a
bit of a heat sink as well.

BigB I am going with a D or mailbox shape with your comments and some
other research. Walker I really like you idea for bricking off part of the forge
to save on gas and size. I will still have the naturally aspirated. Keeping it
simple, and I don't expect to be forging a lot, if that changes, I will upgrade

By using the brick off method I don't have to worried about heat getting to
the unused burners. My plan is for an 18" long Mailbox with 3 burners, at
4.5", 9.0" and 13.5" (or 4/9/14) from the end. That way I can brick off one
or two burners as needed, save gas and heating time.

Keep any thoughts and ideas coming.

Shade Tree Welder 06-23-2020 11:00 AM


Originally Posted by digger doug (Post 756973)
I always thought this one would be handy for all the various work I see
around here:

Think those are way out of my price range...

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