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-   -   7018 changing sizes (https://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49957)

Nomoreusmc 09-24-2018 04:53 PM

7018 changing sizes
 
I have been pretty much been burning 3/32 for a few months and I now just got a box of 1/8 and now I am retarded. I keep running up when I sit and down when stand pretty consistent. I was running really straight with the small stuff and I could tell by the puddle that I was going off kilter. The puddle just looks longer and I am getting one toe good and one toe blobby. Dropped my power to 110, better but I still don't feel like I have good control over the puddle. I know I will get it back but how do you keep yourself used to running different size rods. Silly aluminum guy, I know.

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camdigger 09-24-2018 05:33 PM

I don't think I've ever had the issues you describe.

I run 1/8" 7018 at +/- 130 amps and 3/32" 7018 at +/- 90 amps. 1/8" 6010/6011 run at roughly the same settings as 3/32" 7018. The only real change is the size of the puddle.

Before anyone says I don't run other stuff, I have patched 16 gauge with 3/32" 6011 at 45-50 amps, and run some big beads with spray mig on 3/8" and 1/2" plate. Thicker stuff gets multipass treatment in my shop. I have also played with 6013 on dc straight , dc reverse, and AC.

Specifically to your issues, I would recommend practice, practice, and more practice.....

digr 09-24-2018 05:42 PM

I count at each edge of the weld 1-2 or 1-2-3 what ever it takes to keep both sides looking the same.

Farmersamm 09-24-2018 05:56 PM

When you're used to running a particular diameter, and the amps it's run at......the bigger rod can be an eye opener at first. You'll get used to it.

It seems to run hot, run wild, and deposit a ton of metal. You just haven't gotten used to that particular rod. It's all good.

Run it at about 125 amps, and play with it. If it helps, use earplugs to muffle the sound. It calms ya down.

Bury that bastard in the metal. Shove it in there. It will surprise you how well it runs. When you first switch to a larger rod, you have a tendancy to hold a longer arc. That will mess you up. Keep it tight.

After you get comfortable, run the amps up a bit. 110 is way too low.

I switch (sometimes) between DC, and AC, 7018. DC runs quiet, AC runs like you just got in the middle of a beehive. Loud motha!!!!!!!!!! I wear ear protectors to get rid of the noise.

Farmersamm 09-24-2018 05:59 PM

Depending on what I'm doing, I might switch from 3/32 to 5/32. I always get that little flinch when it lights off, and I start to lay a bead.

You're good man, just let it flow

Nomoreusmc 09-24-2018 08:38 PM

I rub the flux on the base metal or try to on every position but horizontal, then I need the light. It's the only way I can get a good bead. It makes it look like a tig puddle, which I am comfortable with. I need a lot of hood time no doubt.

I am just board to tears with flat plates. I want something real to do.

I tend to run 86 on 3/32 and 110 on 1/8. Both hot start and arc force at 3. I will try cranking it up tomorrow morning. See if it will flow

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Nomoreusmc 09-24-2018 08:39 PM

And thank you for the advice

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Ironman 09-24-2018 10:44 PM

You say you need the light so you are long arcing it? That will give you a poor weld. Like the girlfriend said, bury it. And try running the hot start and arc force at the midpoint on the dial.
And you may need to be running a shade number lighter on the helmet to see the weld better.
I personally run 1/8 at 105 -108 unless I am doing some serious metal. Then I up to 125. Even at that setting you can drill through a 3/8 plate with the rod without sticking.

toprecycler 09-24-2018 11:09 PM

One thing to remember when guys are giving amp settings, is each machine will have its own sweet spot along with the operator. And unless you have digital gauges, manual dials will vary machine to machine. I know that I usually set my machine dials to around 120/130 for 1/8” 7018.


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MetalWolf 09-25-2018 10:00 PM

Are you running the "Lincoln 220 pro multi purpose machine"
if so as Gerry said run your hot start up to 5 and if your gouge setting is above 2 which factory settings is 5 bring it down to 1 or 2 for 1/8" and thinner even lowest I think the settings for both gouge and hot start are 0-10 and factory seems to always be set at 5 and if your using Lincoln Rod you'll find going back to factory settings and just tweaking the settings just a lil bit one way or the other will help you determine where you need to be with each rod size your burning once your happy with the setting you can save that setting for that rod size and just go back to it when its needed...

example: I run my setting on 1/4" at 105 amps 1/8" 7018 and 6011at 100 amps... gouge setting at 3 and hot start at 4 and run a nice bead using Hobart rod running medium fast push or pulling my weld.


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